On researching the national spirit of Mexico.
In 2006 UNESCO declared the tequila-producing region of western Jalisco a protected cultural site—on par with the pyramids of Egypt—a designation that not only solidified tequila’s symbolic import for Mexico, but also catapulted it to an artifact of global importance. As a UNESCO site, western Jalisco and its most prominent export has been deemed part of a cultural and natural heritage so significant that it “belong[s] to all peoples of the world.” Prestigious as this acknowledgement is, it arrives as a direct result of how culturally resonant tequila has been, and continues to be, for Mexico, in particular. As recently as the turn of the 20th century, tequila, though well-poised to become Mexico’s national drink, had not yet earned that distinction. It was only in the ensuing years of the Mexican Revolution, and in the bevy of corridos and midcentury films that followed, that it became enshrined not only as a crucial prop for Mexican narratives, but as a symbol of Mexican identity itself.
In ¡Tequila! Distilling the Spirit of Mexico, Marie Sarita Gaytán traces tequila’s trajectory from one of a handful of native spirits to the prominent standing it enjoys today as a decisive symbol of lo mexicano. Below she discusses what drew her to this spirited field of inquiry.
Q:
So, why study tequila? What drew you to this as an object of research?
MARIE SARITA GAYTÁN: When I began thinking about a possible project, I knew that I wanted to study a topic that would allow me to delve deeper into questions regarding national identity and material culture. At the same time, I wanted my work to address the transnational connections between US Latinos and people living in Latin America. Initially I thought that I’d go to Northern Chile (the birthplace of my father) and study the Pisco industry; eventually I’d link pisco to Chileans living in the United States. However, whenever advisors or friends asked me about my dissertation focus and I mentioned pisco, I basically got the same response: “Pisco? What’s that?”
I answered their question with the following simile: Pisco is to Chile as tequila is to Mexico. People quickly understood what I was talking about. After this happened repeatedly, it occurred to me that studying tequila just might make more sense. It also helped that several years earlier I had studied at the University of Guadalajara, and had a lot of friends in the area. Tequila was the perfect choice.
Q:
You cover a lot of territory with this book—from tequila’s symbolic import to how it’s consumed and portrayed in Mexico and elsewhere. Did you have a favorite topic, one that engrossed you the most?
MARIE SARITA GAYTÁN: By far, the most interesting aspect of the project was learning about Lucha Reyes, the famed ranchera singer of the 1930s-40s. When I arrived in Mexico, all I really knew was that Reyes sang the song “La Tequilera”—the female tequila drinker. Whether in casual conversations or in formal interviews, people consistently brought up her name. Folks told me that she was once considered “the queen of the mariachis” and had committed suicide at the height of her career. No one seemed to know too much about her life. Some speculated that she killed herself because of an unrequited lesbian affair, others suggested that it might have something to do with her addiction to alcohol and penchant for tequila. But again, no one was certain about the details.
I immediately wanted to know more about Lucha Reyes—her travels, triumphs, and travails. I watched as many of the nine movies in which she appeared, read biographies, and collected archival information about her time as a performer in the United States. Her voice and performance style is amazing! She’s such an enigmatic figure and I feel lucky to have crossed paths with her along the way.
Q:
How crucial was taste-testing to your research method?
MARIE SARITA GAYTÁN: Talk about an added bonus! I had the great fortune to taste-test a lot of tequila; sometimes poured straight from the barrel, other times, from an owner’s private reserve. I tried to schedule interviews and fieldwork for later in the day. Although tasty, early morning tastings can be tricky.
Q:
In the course of researching for this book was there anything you discovered that surprised you?
MARIE SARITA GAYTÁN: What surprised me the most was tequila’s long history in the United States. One afternoon while looking through a newspaper archive, I found articles from the 1850s that mentioned tequila. I had no idea! What I eventually learned was that tequila’s close association with Mexican identity and national pride was taking place outside of Mexico long before it was happening inside of Mexico.
Marie Sarita Gaytán is Assistant Professor of Sociology and Gender Studies at the University of Utah and author of ¡Tequila! Distilling the Spirit of Mexico.
The above clip features actress Manolita Arriola interpreting Lucha Reyes's classic, La Tequilera.
Posted by: Marie Sarita Gaytán | November 5, 2014 at 09:24 AM